Withdrawal

I miss this!!!!

And nights like these......

I've been home for about 10 days now and I'm trying to settle in, but I have to admit I'm going stir crazy. People wondered how I pedaled 70 miles a day for 14 months and admired my energy, but I don't understand how they don't want to get on a bike and pedal all day. Some friends of mine were joking, suggesting that I organize a bikers anonymous group to cope with the withdrawal symptoms I'm experiencing. Laugh. Call me crazy, but it's a serious problem! Bike touring, like any addiction, becomes a lifestyle, something you live and breathe daily. A physical and mental dependency developed during the months I spent pedaling and now that I'm out of the saddle, I'm experiencing withdrawal symptoms that are ironically similar to someone who suffers from a physical addiction such as alcohol or smoking.

First ride on my brand new road bike, Barcelona 2009. little did I know what I was getting myself into.....

I'm what you might call a bikeaholic. I have always enjoyed being outdoors and riding a bike, but it became more or a serious habit when I turned 30 and bought my first road bike. At first, I just rode my bike on Saturday mornings with my bike club; 80 to 100 kilometers (50 to 60 miles) up or down the coast near Barcelona. Then I started riding my bike more often, going out both weekend days for longer and longer rides. When that wasn't enough, I would ride my road bike to work, and when the bell rang at the end of the day, I'd quickly change in my gear and hurry out after my students had left to go ride in the foothills on the outskirts of Barcelona. On the weekends, I found myself getting up earlier and earlier to go out for rides. When other people my age were stumbling back from night clubs drunk, I was decked out in my bike kit with flashing lights headed out with the gang from CC Gracia to explore yet another gorgeous region of Catalunya on two wheels. Then I started signing up for races, not just one or two, but sometimes three or four a season. These weren't casual race, but Gran Fondos. 150+ kilometer races that took me over mountain ranges, through vineyard valleys on backroads where we hardly ever encountered traffic for 6 to 8 hours until we crossed the finish line.

Puertos de Ribagorça Gran Fondo, Spain 2011.

Quebrantahuesos Gran Fondo, Spain/France 2012

The best summer job I ever landed, ride leading for Thomson Bike Tours

I thought I was hooked back then, but then in the fall of 2013, my habit became even more serious and I discovered I had a real addiction. I started cycling around the world, riding 100 to 130 kilometers (60 to 80 miles) daily, day after day, with little rest, eager to hop back on my saddle every morning. My body adapted beautifully, although I did take an occasional rest day, I was the happiest in motion pedaling. As if pedaling an average of 2,500 kilometers (1,500 miles) a month wasn't enough, I was carrying an extra 45 kg (100 lbs). Sometimes I would go days without finding a grocery store or taking a shower and weeks without saying more than a few words in my native language. Even with the harsh weather in Alaska when temperatures dropped below freezing, I didn't want to stop cycling. When temperatures got as hot as 109F (43C) in the deserts of North American and the rain forests of Malaysia, I sweat so much I was drinking at least 12 liters (3,5 gallons) of water a day, but I continued to pedal. The headwinds were demoralizing at times impeding my progress and a few cold damp descents brought tears on the verge of hypothermia, but I never gave up. Five years after buying my first bike, I can't stop pedaling! I'm hooked. I'm the happiest person in the world on a bike saddle.

I'd go back to the Ha Giang province in Vietnam in a heart beat 

Happy to be going downhill after a month of pedaling in the mountains of Vietnam and N. Laos

But look at me now. All of a sudden I'm out of the saddle and I don't know what to do with myself. I've had 14 months of time to think about my life after this trip, but obviously I didn't. What on earth did I do for so many months on a bike? What went through my head? I don't know!?!? I pedaled a bike day after day, for 417 days and most of the time I had no idea where I would end up at the end of the day. But I never actually felt lost, not like I do now. You could say I'm experiencing a type of culture shock, only it is magnified with an abrupt lifestyle change as well. I feel like a foreigner in my own hometown, a complete stranger around family and friends unable to relate to my present surroundings. Yet I've been here before, I know this place, it's not new, in fact it should be familiar, but I've changed and I'm at a total loss for figuring out how and where I fit in. I could have ended my trip back in Barcelona and I'd have the same feelings upon arrival. I pedaled from place to place, dropping in to observe and experience the lives of other people, their daily routines, their normal everyday life and all of a sudden I've been thrown in to this “normal” life.

How did I not see this coming? Didn't I think the transition would be rough? It never really occurred to me, I guess. Perhaps it was the fact I was so focused on the moment and living in the present I didn't realize the implications of transitioning into life after you pedal around the world on a bike. I was (and am) excited to see family and friends, sleep in my own bed, but it didn't dawn on me that my reality and feelings would shift so dramatically, making me feel nostalgic, sad, out of place, and sometimes numb.

Even with the world worst road construction, I was happy!

Tell us a story Melissa......We want to hear about your trip, they say. But where do I even begin? I struggle to share and describe the experiences I had in the past year and express how my perspective on the world and my outlook on life has changed. I still visit schools because I miss the classroom. I've had several dinner dates and met up with friends and followers. I enjoy their company and appreciate their interest in my trip. I show them videos and pictures, but I find myself looking on nostalgically, my mind flooding with memories and all of a sudden I'm all choked up and have to hold back the tears. I look at myself in the pictures from my trip and I radiate happiness. But now that I'm home and no longer pedaling, I don't have the same glow and strangely, I feel lost and lonely.

Visiting familiar classrooms, my old high school and high school teacher, Josh Hamill

More classroom visits in Eugene, The Oak Hill School

Can you honestly tell me you were never lonely on your trip? A friend of mine from Barcelona asked upon my arrival. I paused, thought for a moment and answered truthfully, “Never!” Lonely? That word is similar to “bored” in my vocabulary, it is obsolete. How could I get lonely? I never had time to feel lonely. There was always something or somebody around me to stimulate my interests, ignite my curiosity, and fascinate me. I took up random strangers on their offers to have dinner, I let the locals guide me around their town, explored a night market on my own......I was writing blog posts, reading other cyclist's blogs, researching my route, or catching up with family and friends. As I've expressed before, I often found myself needing more down time, more time to just be, absorb my surroundings, and reflect.

Walking around exploring a town in Northern Loas, I joined a local game of volleyball

This same friend from Barcelona who asked me if I was lonely criticized my decision to ride around the world initially. “Only weird people go off on their bike for a year!” he remarked. Maybe he's right, maybe bike tourers are weird, but I don't know any different. Bike touring isn't for everyone, but I am proud to be part of this weird yet global group of society. Now that I'm back, I find myself reaching out to people who've been on similar trips, who share a passion to bike tour. I continue to read other cyclist's blogs so that I can pedal vicariously through them and reminisce together with someone who understands.

I'd meet a few other tour cyclists now and again and we'd share our stories and laugh a lot

I knew myself so well on the bike and now I feel as though I've lost my identity, like I have to start from scratch now that I've been thrown in to a world that feels weird to me! I don't have the patience to go through an identity crisis right now, not after being so happy and at peace with myself just a few weeks back. I like the person I've become after pedaling a bike 14 months, around the world, solo. I've gained confidence and perspective. I have a very clear idea of who I am, what makes me tick, and my vision for the future. The bike has brought out the best in me and now the true challenge will be how to maintain these ideals as I try to integrate into a “normal” world and lifestyle that feels so foreign. The problem is, my idea or a “normal” is so different than the majority of the world, that unless I'm around others who understand or share my values, I do feel alone.

Remember Ly Peng and family?? They took me in just north of Phnom Phen when I had no where else to stay

Instead of facing reality, I continue dreaming. I've been gifted some great books since I've been back, but I can't seem to put down my current reading material: A map of the world. Every night I climb into bed and open it up and start ponder the places I want to go. I look at all the different land out there calling my name just waiting to be explored and the ideas spin in my head. After dozing and nodding off a bit, with the map in my hand, I surrender and turn off the light and go to bed. Ideas continue to spin in my head with the lights off and I have trouble sleeping. This never happened on the bike. It might sound crazy, but when I don't pedal for 6 to 7 hours, I don't exhaust my energy and my body doesn't recognize the need to rest and sleep.

I'm not asking for pity. Believe me, I do acknowledge that I had the most incredible and awesome experience during the last 14 months. As my Dad always says, “Life is a series of choices.” I never understood what he meant by this phrase but now I do and you know what?!?! I'm pretty damn pleased with the choices I've made in my life, especially in the last year and a half. Therefore, I have no doubt that I will continue to make good choices, even if it is difficult, I'm certain I've gained the strength to make decisions that will make me happy. Unfortunately, it all seems like a big blur right now. I managed to do a huge purge upon my arrival and clean out my room at my parent's home. Living out of four panniers makes it really easy to come home and get rid of a lot of extra an unnecessary belongings, thankfully. Shortly, I head east to compete in the New York marathon, the perfect activity that allows me to disconnect and let my mind wander. I'll visit friends and family and see familiar places. Sooner or later I think it will come to me; what it is I want to do in the upcoming year. I have a lot of followers telling me they miss following my trip and reading my blog and believe me, I miss it too! Something tells me I'll be on the road again sooner rather than later......

Guest Post: Traveling with Melissa

An illustration Vicen's sister made for the 3 Amics

This post is written by Viçens Bruguera who has now accompanied me twice on my trip, once at my departure for the first week, and again recently with Nuri in Montana and Canada. I preface this translated post by saying that wrote the translation for Viçen's blog post. Translation is not my specialty, nor is it easy to translate a document about yourself written by a friend. I tried my best to keeps Viçens original voice and refrained from making any changes. Scroll to the bottom for the English version.

Melissa a una sortida del 2010 amb el CC Gràcia

Durant aquests anys hem compartit molts quilòmetres en bici però mai en un viatge amb alforges i puc dir que he tingut la sort de compartir amb ella aquest tipus de viatge i a més en el seu Gran viatge "The Loong way home" ... un viatge que com ella el defineix: "molt més que un viatge amb bicicleta. Per a mi, el viatge representa la culminació dels meus desitjos, inquietuds ... "

The 3 Amics: un bon equip

No existeix una definició tancada del que suposa ser un superheroi .Però hi ha un acord general a aplicar el terme a personatges amb poders o habilitats sobrehumanes o tecnològiques que dediquen els seus esforços a combatre el mal i protegir els innocents. Aquesta és una de les definicions que he trobat de superheroi per Internet i llegint-ho he associat amb Melissa.

Es real, de carn i ossos

Ella no és un personatge, és real, de carn i ossos, ho he pogut comprovar. Els seus poders són molt amplis. El que destaco més és la quantitat d'energia que irradia. Les seves habilitats són infinites. L'apartat tecnològic és on falla una mica més, però gràcies a les seves habilitats s'està sortint força bé en aquest viatge. Aquest any ha dedicat els seus esforços a créixer com a persona i a trobar alguns dels poders que havia perdut en aquests últims anys.

Em presento, Sóc Vicens, conec a Melissa del club ciclista de Gràcia (Barcelona) farà ja un 5 anys. El meu primer record d'ella és d'una noia que anava en bicicleta tota l'estona parlant, no parava, ni quan hi havia una gran pujada, ella seguia parlant. Actualment fa el mateix.

Sortim el 23 d'agost del 2013

He compartit amb ella la seva primera setmana. Sortim el 23 d'agost del 2013 i la vaig acompanyar fins a Niça. Per a mi era la primera vegada que realitzava un viatge amb alforges, ella era ja tota una experta en el tema però en solitari, mai havia fet cap viatge amb algú abans d'aquella data. Ens va costar uns quants dies adaptar l'un amb l'altre en la rutina d'aquest tipus de viatge però després de conèixer les nostres manies, ens vam adaptar a la perfecció. Llàstima que fos en els últims dies quan estàvem gaudint més del viatge. En el comiat de Niça vam comentar la possibilitat de tornar a trobar-nos i fer uns quants dies junts a l'estiu del 2014 pels EUA i així ha estat i aquest cop 2 setmanes i amb la companyia d'una altra companya de Club Ciclista, Núria. Aquesta vegada no ens ha costat adaptar-no ... els tres hem fet un bon equip i hem funcionat com una bona màquina

En una de la tantes converses que vam compartir en el viatge, Melissa em va dir ... T'atreveixes a fer un post sobre mi i la diferència que has trobat entre el primer viatge i el segon? ... Al principi vaig dubtar, vaig pensar ....no sé si seré capaç, jo em defenso millor fent fotos que escrivint, però unes de les coses que he après de ella en aquest últim any és que qualsevol repte que es posi davant, encara que et costi, és afrontar-lo i acceptar-lo ... .Així que aquí estic escrivint ....

Nosaltres la primera setmana del viatje

Personalment no he notat grans canvis en ella, segueix sent una persona molt forta, positiva, curiosa.... segueix sent la Melissa de sempre, el que si he pogut observar és que no està tan obsessionada a organitzar les coses com tenir tot planificat com els seus dies i futur ...segurament ella no estarà d’acord amb mi ... però jo la veig gairebé igual, això si, molt més forta (mentalment com fisicament) i independent. Ella volia uns canvis a la seva vida i trencar la seva rutina i aquest viatge, The Loong Way Home, li ha servit per carregar les bateries fent el que més estima: el ciclisme, viatjar, aprendre, i l'ensenyament! Per poder afrontar després una nova etapa de la vida.

Una de les coses que m'ha sorprès de Melissa, és que les coses menys insignificants per a mi, per ella podia ser el més important. M'ha ensenyat a valorar les coses una altra vegada. Fa uns dies Andrew Hallan va publicar un article on identificava que Melissa era una persona de mentalitat de creixement (una definició d'un llibre Carol S. Dweck). Durant el seu viatge m'ha ensenyat el que és la Mentalitat de Creixement, ella és algú que enfronta els reptes, fa connexions, consegueix anar mes allà, i no accepta tot el que sigui “normal”.

Quan he tornat a Barcelona unes de les preguntes que em fa la gent és: Melissa està molt prima, no? És que a les fotos se la veu molt prima. Jo sempre contesto, si està molt prima però sana i menja moltíssim ... quan dic moltíssim és que devora els plats. L'he vist repetir fins a 3 vegades i perquè no hi havia més i després de sopar obrir el pot de Nutella i començar a devorar fins que li vam treure de les mans perquè ens quedàvem sense esmorzar. També és molt divertit els desitjos de menjar que té, com si fos una embarassada. Els seus sucs de tomàquets a mig matí perquè el seu cos li demanava sal.

Mmmmm....Que bó gelat! He de compartir aixo?

l'anècdota relacionada amb el menjar va ser en l'últim dia que vam fer ruta els 3, era una etapa de 140km per arribar a Jasper. Per a aquest dia no teníem encara allotjament per passar la nit. Quan vam Arribae a Jasper, a última hora de la tarda, Melissa ens va dir, ho sento nois però abans de posar-me a buscar allotjament necessito menjar. Si no , no estaré sociable i no podré concentrar-me en buscar lloc. Així que vam haver d'anar al supermercat i la compra va ser: gelat de litre i mig + “tableta” de xocolata amb crispetes + suc + fruita ...

I us preguntareu, On es fica tot això? ... En un matí ho ha cremat tot i més. Pedalejar amb una bici de 41kg és el que té ... molt desgast i quan no està sobre d'ella no pot estar quieta ni un moment, excursions, córrer.....

Melissa, Gràcies per compartir amb nosaltres el teu viatge i experiències

English Version

There is no closed definition of a superhero, but there is general agreement that refers to characters with superhuman powers or abilities or technological devices who devote their efforts to fight evil and protect the innocent. This is one of the definitions I found online while reading about superheroes and I associated it with Melissa.

She's the real deal, flesh and blood

She isn't a fictional character, she's the real deal, flesh and blood, I can attest to that. She has a wide range of powers, above all the amount of energy she exudes. Her abilities are endless. Although technology is not her specialty, she's actually doing quite well in that area on this trip. This year she has decided to expend her energy and efforts to grow as a person and find special powers that had disappeared in the last couple of years living in Barcelona.

Melissa during a ride in 2010 with the Gracia Cycling Club

I'll introduce myself, I'm Viçens, I've known her for just about 5 years from the Gracia Cycling Club in Barcelona. One of my first memories of her is riding her bike talking the entire time, she didn't stop, not even going up a big climb, she just kept on talking. Today, she's still the same!

During these past years, we've shared a lot of kilometers on the road, cycling, but we'd never traveled together as tour cyclists. I must say, I feel lucky to have shared this type of experience with her, her grand trip, “The Loong Way Home” …..a journey she defines as "much more than a bike trip. For me, the trip represents the culmination of desires, curiosities,....."

Melissa's departure August 23, 2013

We rode together during the first week of Melissa's trip. We left on August 23, 2013 and I rode with her to Nice, France. For me, it was my first trip as a tour cyclist, she was already an expert, but had only ever cycled alone until then. It took us a few days to figure out how to travel together, but once understood one another a bit better, we got in our groove, and adapted perfectly. When saying our good-bye's in Nice, we talked about meeting up the following summer in North America to travel together, and that is exactly what we did for two weeks along with Nuria, another one of our friends from the Gracia Cycling Club. This time round, we picked up from where we left off and traveled well together, the three of us made a good team, working together like a well oiled machine!

The 3 Amics, a good team

In one of our many conversations, Melissa asked me if I would be willing to write a blog post for her website, about my experience traveling with her back in France compared to now. At first I doubted myself, I didn't think I was capable of expressing myself in writing, I do that better taking pictures. However, one of the things I've learned best from Melissa during this last year is to embrace and accept any challenges I'm faced with despite being difficult. So there you have it, I'm writing the post!

During our first week on the road together

Personally, I didn't notice any big changes in her personality, she continues to be strong, positive, and curious, the same Melissa as always. However, what I did notice is that she isn't so worried or obsessed with planning and organizing things like her days, and the future. I'm sure Melissa doesn't agree with me, but she is the same at heart, but much stronger (both mentally and physically) and independent. She was looking for a way to change up her life and break the routine and this trip, The Loong Way Home, helped her do that, recharing her batteries so-to-speak, doing what she loves most: biking, traveling, learning, and teaching! She's ready to take on a new phase in her life after this trip.

One of the things that surprised me the most is something that I wouldn't have even noticed, but for Melissa it's of great importance. Melissa taught me to appreciate things again. As Andrew Hallan recently stated in his article about Melissa, he labeled her as having a “Growth Mindset” (a definition from Carol. S Dweck's book). During our trip together, she showed me that indeed she is someone who embraces challenges, makes connections, pushes through boundaries, and doesn't accepting the status quo.

Melissa always keeping up, just behind us in Canada

When I returned to Barcelona one of the questions people asked me is, "Does Melissa eat? She looks so thin in the photos?" I always tell them, she's thin, but healthy, and eats A LOT, trust me! I mean A LOT as in she devours everything on her plate in front of her. In some cases I even saw her go back for thirds and she would have gone back again, but there wasn't any food left for her. Then she would open a jar of Nutella and begin to eat that. We had to take it out of her hands or else she would eat our breakfast the next morning! She's got some funny food cravings, much like a pregnant woman, I suppose. When she needs salt, she chugs tomato juice and peanuts, when her body craves protein, she goes for cottage cheese. I'll never forget the last day the three of us rode together. We had a long day, 140 km to Jasper, Canada. When we arrived late in the evening and didn't have a place to stay. Melissa told us, "Sorry guys, before we look for a place, I have to eat! If not I'm not very social and won't be able to concentrate on finding a place!" So we went to the supermarket and bought some groceries: 1,5 liters of ice cream, a chocolate bar, chips, juice, and fruit.

Yuummm....Ice cream, do I really have to share this?

You might look at her and wonder, where does it all go? In just one morning, she's burned it all and more....You have to remember she's riding a bike that almost doubles her weight and that takes a lot of energy, and she's not one to sit still, even when she isn't pedaling she's always active, hiking, running.....

Melissa taught me how to trust in people again, to go out of my comfort zone to gain insight and knowledge. To look for challenges, a feel comfortable working through them, and failure isn't a setback, but rather an experience to learn from, and grow from it.

Melissa, thanks for sharing your trip and experiences with us!

The Adventures of "The 3 Amics"

The Tres Amics at the Rodeo in Columbia Falls, MT

Can't help but smile in good company in the mountains!

The 3 (Tres) Amics, that is what we call ourselves, a takeoff of “The Three Amigos”. We are three friends, cyclist companions, one Oregonian and two Catalans, hence we adapted the name of The Three Amigos to match ourselves! The name suits us, after all it comes from a western comedy about three men on horseback. We are two young women and one guy on bikes, fully loaded, out to explore the great west, from Missoula Montana to Jasper, Canada! And what adventures we've had during the past 2 weeks cycling together for 1,500 km (900 miles).

Vicens and I crossed the first border of my trip together and the second to last as well!

It was rare to have these two behind me, normally they pulled me, except on the down hill when the queen of the heavy bike flew by

Nuri and Viçens have been riding with me for the past two weeks, although it feels like they've been with me from kilometer one! In spirit they have, as have many of my friends from Barcelona, especially those in my cycling club, who continue to support and motivate me throughout this loong journey. Viçens, Nuri, and I go way back, not in years, but in the kilometers we've pedaled together in Catalunya. All three of us are passionate road cyclist. Although tour cycling is different, we rode just as well with the extra weight as we do without. We live to ride; to see, explore, and experience the world on two wheels! We crave a good ride; we enjoy pushing ourselves to discover new limits, we like to go a bit further, ride a little faster, and climb even higher! We've cycled together almost every Saturday and Sunday for the past two years and understand each other well on the bike. We know each other's pace, how to ride together in a pace line, take turns drafting, and when to stop for a break. Viçens was a gentleman on the trip and did a lot of the riding out in front, keeping a moderate pace pulling us ladies along. Nuri pulled through for us on some critical moments during the steepest climbs keeping us motivated making it look so easy on the lightest of the three bikes. My role was strategic, I positioning myself in the rear visible with my florescent flappers hanging from my panniers to warm cars of our presence.

Nuri, always in good spirit unless she has a flat tire (a total of 8 until we figured out the problem)

Vicens can pedal way faster, but would hang back to keep me company and chat

Viçens is a saint. Not many men could put up with two young bubbly, energetic, chatty ladies. Nuri and I have a very similar personality, in fact, I would call her my Catalan twin! She's a primary teacher, loves the outdoors, craves being active, enjoys travels, adventures, has a similar sweet tooth and is extremely “espavilada” as they say in Spanish, meaning we are “artistically and skillfully resourceful”. We have a very similar travel style, as well, and have seen a lot of the world! Compared to other women who might need a lot of comforts, Nuri and I get by with minimal pampering! We love to explore, are keen observers, and once we make up our mind, there is no stopping us, which is why we love a good challenge or competition, which made finding places to camp a lot of fun!

Viçens in paradise!

Viçens on the other hand is more quiet and reserve and keeps a lot of his thoughts and comments to himself. Therefore, when he does speak up, you have to listen, because he's put a lot of thought into his reflections. The most memorable quote from him on the trip occurred when we were discussing religion.  Nuri and I both stated we weren't sure what happens after people die.  Viçens turned his head and quite confidently stated,...."The bike!!!"  We all started laguhing, as if we need more opportunities to cycle in the afterlife!  Although he hasn't traveled as much as we have, he's completely open to trying new things, exploring, and genuinely interested learning about people, new environments, and the culture. From s'mores to jelly beans, peanut butter, waffles, and red ropes, I don't think there was a food item Viçens tried that he didn't like, except for the coffee, which as he states, “doesn't taste like anything!”, unless it has a double or triple shot espresso! Viçens is also incredibly easy going which works goes nicely with the personality of two strong-minded woman! Rarely does he get mad, upset, or frustrated, and maintains a mild temper consistently. He doesn't speak English, which made participating in conversations a little hard, but he started picking up words and phrases from any English speaker other than myself, as they all speak 10 times slower!

After 3 punctures, we decided this was the perfect place to have lunch!  The neighbors brought us cold drinks too! 

And just when we started to pedal again, I got a flat!  

These ladies are always entertained

Together our personalities made for a lot of fun adventures! At any one time, it seemed like one of us was always laughing!  Not to mention, Nuri and I had plenty of time to have some “girl talks” while Viçens and I also reflected on my trip and compared how things had changed since we set out from Barcelona almost a year ago. We shared stories from our childhood, families and friends. There were moments of complete silence as well as moments where our voices echoed in the far off canyons. We laughed, reminisced, suffered, almost cried (after some frustrating bike mechanics issues), and became inseparable during our 2 weeks of pedaling!

Our hosts in Ronan, MT had us stay in their motor home

Our wonderful BC hosts, Joseph and Sharon. They weren't even official Warmshowers hosts, friends of one though!

For the first 8 days we were spoiled with incredible hosts, 7 in Montana and one in southern British Columbia. I had my doubts about finding hosts that would be able, and willing, to accommodate 3 people, it is a lot to ask! However, from Missoula to the Canadian Rockies, we were gratefully hosted by delightful couples and families. We cooked for a few of your hosts, but most prepared meals for us! We slept wherever our hosts had room, alternating between sharing beds, floor space, and pitching our tent in backyards.

It wasn't until Canada's national parks that our free camping adventures began! Although it has become a challenge for me to not pay for accommodation in North American, I was willing to adapt while traveling with Viçens and Nuri. Without realizing it, we entered Kootenay, Banff, Yoho, and Jasper National Parks on one of Canada's biggest holiday weekends, which meant campsites were completely booked! Our first evening in Radium Springs we use public restrooms at the park to wash up and then found a nice place in front of the visitor center for a picnic dinner. We wanted to camp behind their center, but an employee was still working inside at 10 pm. We asked her politely if we could put our tents up, but she wouldn't let us. Coming from the states, where I had never been turned denied camping in the most unusual of places, I was shocked! However, it took Nuri and I a total of about 2 minutes to find a church where we could put our tents and be tucked away. There was even an electrical outlet and water to use!

Camping behind a church, we were well protected!

The second night we arrived at a major road junction just shy of Lake Louise. There were two government campsites, but both were full and wouldn't let us enter, no even to share a site. When we asked for an alternative, they told us we might have luck 30 kilometers up the road. We laughed! It was already 7pm and riding longer was out of the question. Now, my first impression of Canadians was tainted. I was disappointed by their lack of willingness to help cyclists, not to mention the lack of hiker/biker sites. In the United States, I have never been turned away due to a full campground as a tour cyclists, they always find a way to accommodate you!

One of many picnic dinners

Riding at dusk, can't beat it!

What do you do in Canada when the official campgrounds in national parks are full? You look for an alternate place to wash up, eat dinner, and camp in the bush once it gets dark, just like any other place I've been in the US. While we waited for it to get dark, another tour cyclist rode by and told us he was headed to a park security office where he was told camping was possible for cyclists. We decided we would join him after finishing our dinner. We waited until it was fairly dark and pedaled on down the road. The best part of free camping is riding at dusk to find the perfectly hidden spot! The colors in the sky and the deep shadows are priceless. It's my preferred time to ride although it might not be the safest. Down the road we went, but never came across the park security offices. Instead we pulled off at a trailhead that happened to have an area where we could pitch our tent out of sight from the road and the parking lot that had a big “Camping Prohibited” sign posted. If needed, this is where Viçcens would speak up for us and say in his thick Spanish accent, “I'm sorry, I don't speak English!” The trailhead turned out to be a great spot and no one found us, although we were on the road by 7am!

Sunset from our illegal campsite, priceless.

"Connected" thank goodness for free wifi!

The following morning we headed over to Lake Louise to explore. We hung out on the village for a few hours taking advantage of a decent grocery store, free wifi, and good espresso. A couple nights back an American couple I met randomly in New Zealand on my trip happened to be at the Fairmont Chalet at Lake Louise and we planned on meeting up from drinks that evening if it worked out. Before setting off on our hike, we tried to get a spot at the official campground. Again, it was full and the attendant said sharing was not an option, negotiation was out of the question. We asked him about other campgrounds to try and again were told to go on to the next one 30 km up the road, although he was certain it too was full! We asked if we could camp in the wild and he laughed, telling us that we would most likely be fined and kicked out of the park. His sarcasm and lack of compassion rubbed me the wrong way. I joked with him and responded my saying, “Wow, we've been really lucky then the last two nights!” and pedaled up to the lake. Plan B was to hike, wait for it to get dark and find another place off the beaten track to camp. We enjoyed the day hiking up to The Pain of Six Glaciers and on our way back stopped by the hotel where my friends Bill and Sharman were hanging out at the saloon. Wouldn't you know, this is the 3^rd encounter I've had with them, two complete strangers before I approached them on the streets of a small town in New Zealand, asking for directions. They themselves had been out hiking and met a Catalan couple from Barcelona and told us they were also having trouble camping with their motor home rental, but had luckily found a place to camp at the neighboring lake. Sharman and Bill had dinner plans at a local restaurant, but we enjoyed thewir company and delicious nachos. At first they offered for us to shower in their room while they went to dinner, but then they gave us an offer we couldn't resist and invited us to use the hotel spa!

Hiking to the Plain of Six Glaciers

Bill, Sharman, and myself,....our third meet-up of my trip!

You should have seen Nuri and Vicen's eyes light up when they heard the word jacuzzi. It was as if they had a winning lottery ticket. I was equally delighted, after all, it had been two days since we'd properly showered and we'd worked up quite a sweat hiking and biking. Not to mention they had towels, toiletries, even a hair dryer and a centrifuge to dry our hair and suits afterwards! There are a lot of outdoorsy people at Lake Louise, so we wouldn't have been out of place in the jacuzzi, but we were incapable of hiding our highly defined tan lines. The sauna, jacuzzi and long hot shower left us as good as new and we even met a nice young employee who gave us the password for the hotel internet access. After pampering ourselves in the spa we headed to the lobby to connect to wireless. If only someone had taken a picture of the three of us, you wouldn't have recognized us being so clean and perfumed!

The jacuzzi, it was such a treat you can't even imagine!

It was approaching dark and we still hadn't scouted out a place to camp. However, Nuri and I were convinced we could go find the Catalan couple camping in their motorhome up at lake Moraine. We went in search of them to see if we could share their camp site. We even joked about the possibility of the Catalan couple feeding us dinner,.....wouldn't we be lucky! Again, we had another beautiful ride at dusk, we hardly noticed the road that climbed for 12 km (8 miles) up to the lake. Nor did we notice the lack of signs posted for services  at Lake Moraine.  There wasn't a campground sign, but we were too caught up in the thought of meeting Catalans in Canada.   In fact, we even joked about the possibility of the Catalan couple feeding us dinner,.....wouldn't we be lucky!

Another ride at dusk up to a campground that didn't exist.  We were happy we got to see the lake.

To our luck, or should I say ignorance, we arrived at Lake Moraine only to find a luxurious lodge with one vacant room for $600 a night and NO campgrounds. There was RV parking, but no official campground. Opps! We had overlooked that minor detail! What to do now? Don't forget we are resourceful and brave! The 3 Amics put their heads together and thought about hitchhiking back down, but since it was so late we opted for camping next to a small picnic hut 200 meters from the parking lot. Yes, free camping in a national park is prohibited in Canada, but we didn't have any alternative and frankly we were more worried about bears than being caught by humans as Moraine lake is a “high alert area” for bears. Thankfully we had some groceries left over from the morning for dinner, and we were up and packed by 6am!

The bear thing is for real, we had 2 sightings in our two weeks

the three is for our 3rd night of free camping in a Canadian Nation Park without being caught,....or for The 3 Amics!

Needless to say the next day we were tired but pedaled through some breathtaking scenery and glaciers that made up for our lack of sleep. That night we were prepared to pay for a primitive hostel at our destination, but since neither it or the campground next door had a shower, we opted for the campground. We went to find a vacant site and ended up encountering another tour cyclist who let us share his campsite. This campground was a self-register site and we didn't have to deal with any unpleasant hosts, but it also wasn't prohibited to share, thankfully!

Talk about being resourceful, eating breakfast and doing laundry while getting free wifi!

In Canada, so far, it isn't easy to find accommodation in a national park, EI ?!?! Wouldn't you know the town of Jasper is also officially within national park boundaries? When we arrived here without a host and with both campgrounds full, you would think the churches we asked, would take us in, right? WRONG!!! Rejected again! Where is the love and encouragement for tour cyclists here? After never being turned away for the night when asking to camp in the US, I've basically only been rejected in Canada. This is where I plan to cycle for the next three weeks and I hope our experience over the last several days is not representative of what I will find everywhere else in Canada! Thankfully, at the last moment a Warmshowers host pulled through for us in Jasper and although we had to leave early in the morning, we were able to get our basic needs met: a hot showers, clean clothes, and had access to a kitchen to prepare meals! I will give Canadians the benefit of the doubt so far. I am hopeful that the only reason we had to free camp illegally for four consecutive nights is because of the holiday weekend. I think I will have better luck traveling solo the further north I go into the land of remoteness!

The 3 Amics are here!

Melissa, Nuri, and Viçens, CC Gracia abroad!

Sadly the adventure of The Tres Amics has officially come to an end. Tonight a celebration looking back and reflecting on all our adventures and tomorrow a big farewell! Nuri and Viçcens will accompany me for the first 50 kilometers of my route up north to Alaska and then turn back.  I've never felt lonely cycling alone for the past 11 months, but something tells me I might be overcome with this feeling on my way north after my delightful company. Nuri and Viçens were amazing cycling companions before these two weeks and now I feel as though we are inseparable! They have become an extension of me. We are like 3 peas in a pod and travel flawlessly together! In fact, we've already decided that there will be a The Tres Amics: Part 2 bike trip back in Spain/Europe in the near future! Stay tuned!

To view the complete photo albums from our trip together, click here!

Columbia Icefield, our last day riding in Jasper National Park, until we meet again!