From Rags to Riches in Myanmar

Rural life in Myanmar, their river is their bath and the place to wash clothes, and also provides them with food and water for crops.

From rags to riches, that is exactly what I witnessed as I made my way down to Yangon and the beaches of central Myanmar. I would say that during my travels in Myanmar, 70% of my time was spent on the backroads surrounded by rural villages and countryside. Here, life is very primitive and simple (hence I used the title “rags”) but that does not mean that they lack happiness in their daily life. Actually I'd argue the opposite. Village life witnessed from the side of the road and through my interaction might be titled as extreme poverty with few resources on which to live, but it was in these areas that I felt the most comfortable as a traveler because of the genuine heart filled personality of the locals.

Village houses in rural Myanmar

A grouping of houses by the main road

The bridge to a few houses on the other side of a canal.

Despite their very meager conditions, villagers in Myanmar always seemed happy and content with the bare minimum. And when I say refer to the bare minimum, that is even a bit of a stretch. Houses are nothing more than a roof, some without walls, others with only three walls and are as small as 3 or 4 square meters.  Privacy is a luxury, beds the floor unless they have a foldable mattress or some sort of bamboo pad.  Roofs made out of dried banana and palm leaves, raised on stilts if they are lucky to survive the wet season. It was common to encounter people here bathing in the streams or at a public water hole, which might be as simple as a big barrel of water and a bucket to be shared by all the people in the vicinity. Most families found a way to convert their living quarters into some sort of a business selling snacks or beverages, anything they could to make a little money. Close by was some sort of crop growing that they would all cultivate, probably one of the only sources of income for the people.

In a nut shell, the character of many Burmese is similar to this little girl

In the mountains from Inle Lake to the new capital city of Nay Pyi Taw, I had trouble finding a restaurant. Small shops were scattered along the way, but a proper tea house with green tea and meals were hard to come by. One morning I had to pedal 20 miles before I found a shop with tea I could drink to warm up in the crisp mountain air. This is unusual for SE Asia where food and drink is normally in abundance. Resources in the mountains in Myanmar were limited, making it feel as though I was really off the beaten track experiencing rural village life, which accounts for a good majority of the lives of people in Myanmar. As a tourist in rural Myanmar, they were always so curious regarding my presence, but never once treated me poorly. Never once did it dawn on them that I was a tourist and therefore they should treat me differently, charge me more, or take advantage of me in any other way. They were always willing to help me, even if it involved a lot of giggling.

No food stalls lining these mountain roads

Many of the remote landscapes in Myanmar's mountains

In rural Myanmar I was fascinated to observe their daily lives and have a profound respect for them. Survival is their objective as they are completely reliant on their own efforts in order to meet their daily needs. They build their houses by hand, they grow all their vegetables that they eat. Meat, I'm sure is a commodity but comes from the few chickens and pigs you seem roaming around freely. They might have a water buffalo to help with the efforts, but if not, they carry everything with their own bare hands, many times balancing things on their heads, or strapping heavy bags over their heads. If the road needs to be repaired, it is done all by hand. That means they gather the rocks, spread them out on the ground, level them with hand tools, and burn the barrels of tar that is then spread over the rocks. There are no bulldozers, no trucks, everything is done by hand. Witnessing their daily efforts were humbling. Their day is consumed doing everything in order to maintain a sustainable life up in the mountains. With few resources they depend completely on themselves, their family, and other village members.

A barrier to avoid mud slides, all done by hand

Road works, all done by hand

My company on the rural roads

Needless to say, I was in shock when I arrived in more developed areas, especially the new capital city of Nay Pyi Taw. About five years ago, the government decided to move Myanmar's capital from Yangon to Nay Pyi Taw, because of the more central location. Perhaps it is central geographically but the hub of activity remains in Yangon. My jaw dropped as I witnessed immaculate newly constructed 10 lane highways, skyscrapers, and infrastructure such as expo centers that looked as if they could accommodate events of many thousands of people. Oddly enough, the city is deserted with few inhabitants. I was repulsed by what I witnessed imagining the money and time that was spent to move the capital to Nay Pyi Taw, after observing the poverty conditions in rural villages. Just stop and thing about the money and effort that would be involved if all of a sudden the United States decided to move our capital from Washington DC to let's say somewhere central like Wichita, Kansas? With the money spent on the new capital the Myanmar government could have invested in the country's basic education system or improved the network of rural roads using the proper technology and machinery. It was appalling to witness and the reason why I chose hop on a night bus rather than spend the night and contribute to this economy.

Nay Pyi Taw, an empty capital

A empty massive highway, think it was an over kill?

Government buildings

Having cycled up the western central plains of Myanmar, I bused myself down to Yangon and cycled through the delta to the beach destination of Ngwe Saung, where I was also in for more surprises. In central and northern Myanmar there are a total of 3 beach destinations, one being for middle class locals and the other two for rich Yangonites and foreigners. I headed to the upper class beach because from the description of a 13 miles pristine stretch of beach with virtually no inhabitants, I thought I would find plenty of places to camp. Boy was I in for a surprise when I discovered that the entire stretch of beach basically belonged to a huge hotel compound and all the property was carefully gated and strictly patrolled. I cycled to the very end of the beach strip where the road turned to sand, and found myself among all the local village people who probably worked at the hotels. Their huts and houses were scattered everywhere and there wasn't one place I could put my tent and go under the radar. My plan back-fired as again I found myself surrounded by the “riches” of Myanmar.  Luckily I found a "resort" that would let me put my tent in the back corner of their property for a meager price, using their bucket shower to wash-up.

Definitely a tourist hub!

This is what the locals spend their time doing at the beach, taking photos of themselves

The average price of the beach resorts in Ngwe Saung go for about 80 dollars a night all the way up to 300 USD, and to tell you the truth, the amount of western foreigners is outnumbered by far by the locals. SUV after SUV with a Yangon license plate passed me on the road to the beach, which again blew my mind: the disparity between the rich and the poor in this country. It blows my mind as there is such an extreme spectrum. Here I had spent so much time up in rural Myanmar observing their simple and minimal lifestyle and now I was surrounded by extreme wealth among the very wealthy burmese. Here I had eaten three meals a day for under 2 dollars and at the beach, I couldn't even buy a fruit shake for 2 dollars. Amazing! Hence the title of this blog, from rags to riches.  Unlike western beach destinations, you won't find towels or people bathing in the sun on the sandy beaches.  No, the Burmese don't go to the beach to do that, they go there to take pictures, a status symbol, that let's others know they were there.  A few men were in the water in bathing suits, and the women that dares entered did so fully clothed or in a bathing suit that was completely covered up.  The sun was so intense on the beach during the middle of the day that everyone retreats to their resort for shade.  I found myself on a beach chair under an umbrella completely alone, which was absolutely delightful! 

The abandoned beach

Believe it or not, I can sit still, for an hour or so

My visit to Ngwe Saung prepared me for my visit to Yangon or Rangoon, as it was once called, the former capital of Myanmar. I'm glad I waited until the end of my trip to see Yangon, because, where as some people would see it as the norm for life in Myanmar, rural village life had become the norm and Yangon was something out of the ordinary. A bustling big city, that was actually quite calm and pleasant compared to other southeast Asian capitals such as Phnom Pehn, Bangkok, and Ho Chi Minh. For one, motorcycles are prohibited so traffic consists of a sea of taxis, buses, and bike taxis, making it easier to navigate than motor scooters. I also arrived on a Sunday and the following day was a bank holiday, so I think the city was calm in comparison to other days of the week. There was an ever-present essence of colonialism with the decrepit colonial style buildings that looked as if they hadn't been restored since they were built 200 years prior. Also remarkably noticeable is the confluence of cultures and religions all sharing the same city. There is an eclectic mix of Chinese, Indians, Myanmar, and a few westerners, and therefore on the same street you see a pagoda, there is also a Hindu temple, a cathedral around the corner, and a Chinese temple across the street. Yangon reminded me a bit of Penang or other cities in Malaysia with the cultural diversity and amicable relationship between all it's inhabitants.

Market goers, evidence of Yangon's cultural diversity 

A woman setting up her market stand, impeccably organized

A Hindu temple in the city center

A Mosque behind the ruins of another building in Yangon

An old colonial buildings in Yangon 

I'm not a fan of big cities and only scheduled a day and a half to visit. The noise, crowds, and traffic usually deter me, but Yangon was a pleasant surprise. I found a quiet guesthouse in Chinatown and found the downtown area easy to navigate. Even the main Schwedagon Pagoda is accessible by foot, making it a very friendly city to do on foot. Hands down the most enjoyable part of my visit was the food. I had no idea that Yangon is a foodie hub. With all the different ethnic groups it's no wonder. Basically my day and half here involved eating my way through the different neighborhoods trying anything and everything that I saw on the street. I would have needed an extra week if not month to do justice to the exquisite culinary offerings in the city, and I'm only talking about those that you find on the street food carts.......

Schwedagon pagoda, the main attraction in Yangon for tourists

The night market that lines the streets of downtown Yangon

With my visit to Yangon, my bike tour in Myanmar came to a close. I have thoroughly enjoyed biking this country even considering the more difficult circumstances involved with accommodation, the suspicious police, and the controlling government. I've developed a new appeal for traveling in a more undeveloped tourist destination making for more of a challenge and a memorable adventure. The daily life I witnessed in Myanmar is humbling. I have an incredible amount of respect for the Burmese, their work ethic, and their daily routine. After my month here, I'm again reminded about the perspective I gained after many months and kilometers traveling on a bike. I need very little in order to be happy and my standards and expectations are so low, that happiness comes from the most simple things in life and this, in my opinion, is priceless. Maybe you'd say I live like a poor person, especially traveling through Myanmar, but so be it! I prefer to experience a country as a local rather than as a king, pampering myself with frivolous amenities. I'm the happiest of people drinking a cup of milky tea and eating a fried pastry for a total of 30 cents. Dare I tell you the three souvenirs I bought? A burmese lunch box, the ingredients to make pickled tea leaf salad, my staple here in Myanmar, and their milky tea in sachets!

Stay tuned for a few more blog posts on Myanmar featuring their food, my accommodations in Myanmar, and a photo documentation of the country.   

Vegas: An Atypical Experience in an Atypical City

The "City of Sparkle"

What?!?! You are going to Vegas? That doesn’t seem like a very Melissa place to go. What is an Oregon “Granola-Girl” like you doing in the “City of Sparkles”?  Ok, you've got a point.  True, it isn’t a place I would necessairly chose for a weekend get-away, but since I was going from point A to B (Death Valley to The Grand Canyon), Vegas just happened to be on the way, not to mention, I hadn't ever been!  And the truth is, I had a wonderful time, although my experience was far from the typical Vegas trip!

I was actually going to live it up in Vegas, and treat myself to a fancy hotel on the strip since there are a lot of last minute deals to be had online.  However, I saw the profiles of the Warmshowers hosts in the area, and decided I didn’t need a fancy hotel.  I wanted to see what life was really like in Vegas through the eyes of keen cyclist, who live there day in, and day out. 

Here they are, Greg and Dawn, indulging in Spanish Tapas 

Greg and Dawn’s profile caught my attention.  Greg is featured in a pretty snazzy bike jersey.  Reviews from past guests are top notch.  How could I go wrong? They are a couple in their mid-fifties, originally from the Northwest (Seattle), like myself, and have lived in Vegas for nearly 20 years.  They have an active and healthy lifestyle.  Dawn is a dancer. She performed in Jubilee for almost 10 years and after that she opened up a pilates studio at their home.   Greg is a keen cyclist and a nautical engineer.  He is on a boat for four months, then comes home for four months, and so on.  Their professions are up the list for "more unusual professions" out of all my hosts, just down from the Slovenian army parachuters I had close to Ljubljana.   

I spent a lot of time in the massage chair, with the Yoga Toes

I knew I was going to have a great time at their house from the moment I walked through the door.  You see, in the first 5 minutes, while re-hydrating in the kitchen, something caught my eye in the living room.  It was a special chair.  Greg and Dawn had a full body massage chair; one of those chairs you sit in and use the remote to choose a program and it gives you a massage. How could I be so lucky?  Ever since I left SE Asia, I've been dying for a massage.  This was my lucky day!  As soon as I showered, my bum was glued to that chair trying out the different programs.  Each of them had their own preferred programs and they used the chair quite often themselves, although Greg discovered a few new programs while I was visiting.

Even after 5 years, Greg still enjoys his massage chair

Another great gadget, Yoga Toes

While I was in the chair relaxing, Greg and Dawn were on the sofa telling me about how they ended up in Vegas and what life was like in this world famous city.  Dawn pulled out what looked to be a fancy toe spacer, like they use at nail salons.  I hadn’t ever seen something like this before.  It was called Yoga Toes.  She apparently had a big bunion on her foot and used the Yoga toes in order to straighten out her bones and alleviate herself of the bunion.  She swore by Yoga Toes and so I showed her my funky toes.  I inherited the Pritchard toes on my left foot and my second toe crosses over and squashes the big toe.  As a result I have a huge bunion!  It isn’t painful, just ugly, and with the nice tan lines I have now after cycling in sandals, well, my feet are pretty hopeless, or at least that is what I thought.  Dawn explained to me how Yoga toes worked my only problem being that they have to be used while sitting still, which just doesn't happen very often in my life.  On they went, though, while I was in the massage chair!  
 

I can't get enough fresh Mexican food in The States

  

That night, however, I finally managed to get out of the massage chair and we went out for Mexican at their favorite restaurant followed by wacky named drinks at a local bar in town.  I shared some of my travel stories fresh in my mind that became more and more hysterical the more rum I drank.  I had arrived to Greg and Dawn’s absolutely exhausted that day from a long ride in the heat, but now I was plenty hydrated and having a great time!

A great local bar in Las Vegas....not on the strip!

These guys were up for trying my self-serve yogurt store, my new favorite pit stops on the road

Most people come to Vegas to check out the strip, but why bother when there are so many fun gadgets to try out at my hosts’ house.  What fun I was going to have here.  The next morning we chilled out around the house and finally made it out for lunch and frozen yogurt and took a field trip to REI. When you are on your bike, and have to carry all your life belongings, you jsut start to drool looking at all the cool gear you'd love to buy!  After REI, we went to the "REI of grocery stores", Trader Joes. I wanted to cook tapas for them and needed to pick up the works.  I could also spend hours in Trader Joes looking at all the products, not to mention they have free coffee and are always serving samples.  We actually arrived for the free wine tasting event, but refrained from participating. 

Tapas and microbrews, you can't go wrong

That night while having tapas, which I had been craving for awhile, we discussed plans for the next day.  I was really only counting on spending one day off in Vegas.  I had a host 40 miles to the east of the city, close to Hoover Dam and I was going to go there the following night.  However, I'd been here for a day and a half now and I hadn’t even been to the strip.  I thought I could ride down it on my way out of town, but Greg and Dawn convinced me to spend another full day in Vegas.  They really didn't have to do much convincing, I was enjoying my time so with them it was an easy decision!  Although I had no desire to gamble, I did want to see the main artery of the city.

Wait,...am I in Venice? How did that happen....

On Saturday, again we had a lazy morning which included using the massage chair and Yoga Toes, and then I went down to the strip.  Greg and Dawn dropped me off for the afternoon to explore.  I had no idea what to expect, and was completely blown away by what I saw!  It is consumer central craziness!  You get the sense that money is being thrown around constantly, as if it has no value whatsoever!  I must have seen a handful of Louis Vuitton and Gucci stores in half a mile radius.  You really never have to actually step outside, because once you enter a hotel, you get lost trying to find your way around or even find the exit to the street.  This is done on purpose of course so that you will be lured into the casinos to press your luck.  I hovered over some Poker and Black Jack tables and saw the coin slot machines, but none of it really enticed me.  My strategy was to make a list of the places and attractions to see on the strip with the help of Greag and Dawn and this list helped me not get so overwhelmed.  I had a good laugh with all the imitation architecture.  It was like I had back tracked on my trip when I walked through the canals in the Venetian and saw Caesar’s Palace.  No wonder so many Americans never have a desire to travel abroad.   All you need to do is go to Vegas and you have the most iconic sights from around the world all in one 5-mile strip of land.  There is the Eiffel Tower, Atlantis, The Arc de Triumf, and erupting volcano, Roman statues, even white tigers, dolphins, and lions!  I couldn’t resist my urge to knock on the cement walls of Venice.  Hollow of course!  The whole place reminded me a bit of Skopje, the capital of Macedonia, where the buildings were also hollow, imitating the old stuff.

Paris......in The States

I arrived at the Atlantis just in time for a light and fountain show

After 3 or 4 hours, everything started looking the same, except the people.  They just kept getting crazier and crazier.  Go figure, they are all walking around with open bottles on the streets and huge drink cups that are harnessed around their necks!  By the early evening, I was ready to be picked up, the massage chair was calling and so was my desire to make dinner.  On my last night, we each made a dish and had a delicious dinner with Margarita’s to toast to my Vegas experience and the Warmshowers for introducing us.  I was sad to leave the next morning.  I had fit right into Greg and Dawn’s life in Vegas and I was really enjoying myself. Greg and Dawn are just good old fun!  They have a great life in Vegas, far far away from the strip!  I have a feeling these two are going to become the most popular Warmshowers hosts in Vegas the way they spoil their guests!

Hoover Dam, also man-made, but way cooler than the Vegas strip

I have to cherish moments like these because you never know where you will be the following day. I ended up pedaling from Vegas to Hoover Dam and found myself pitching my tent that night on a machine gun shooting range just after crossing the Arizona border.  That's a whole other story to be told!

A shooting range, a great place to pitch a tent, who would have thought?!?

Hong Kong: Love at First Sight

Hong Kong skyline from Kowloon

Sometimes no matter how hard you try to plan things and prepare, life throws you a curve ball and you have surrender. I had tried to prepare my Hong Kong arrival as much as possible knowing that having a bike in this city was going to be a challenging, if not impossible.  I was incredibly apprehensive about biking around Hong Kong on my bike.  From the research I had done, biking wasn’t a convenient means of transportation and I was starting to regret choosing Hong Kong for my Asian city of arrival.  However, upon landing, my luggage was missing.  I could have gotten frustrated but since I try to see the positive side of things, for me it meant a little shopping spree for a new outfit (or two) courtesy the airlines and not having to worry about carting my bike around Hong Kong fully laden with my gear.  Funny enough, it was a relief that my luggage didn’t come on time.

Hong Kong.  Wow!  Where to begin?  The best way to describe it is love at first sight.  While it feels chaotic and out-of-control, there is something about this city that draws you in, I can’t quite put my finger on it, but you’re intrigued and excited to experience more despite the simultaneous overwhelming sensation. On my bus ride into the city, I couldn’t stop looking around at all the fascinating views.  Tiny, unpopulated islands scattered across the sea seem so serene next to giant skyscrapers towering over a bustling metropolis.  Highways wind in and out of the tall buildings with overpasses and tunnels every 200 meters.  Hong Kong has developed every last inch possible in the city. Even storefront show signs of making the most of the space they have to display the goods their selling. I’ve seen Southern Thailand through the eyes of a cyclist, so jungles weren’t a new sight, but when a dense metropolis area juxtaposes the jungle, it’s an unbelievable sight.

Mong Kok district

Once on foot, I aimlessly wandered the streets stopping to observe, stare, and smile with amusement and disbelief. The maze of streets is lined with markets, stores, and restaurants.  Every nook and cranny is filled.  Bustling and busy, jammed packed with swarms of people regardless of the time of day.  Everyone seems to have a purpose, their normal daily routine and know exactly where they are going and how to get there. Yet, I’m baffled as to how to read the map and orient myself.  Everything looks the same, restaurants on the corners, narrow deep stores covered wall-to-wall in merchandise, and millions of street signs hanging from above.  Just when I think I know where I am, and perhaps recognize a street name, all of a sudden I’m completely lost and can’t situate north from south and the water from the mountains.  Getting my bearings proved to be my biggest challenge exploring the streets of Hong Kong.  People walk, but for any distance over a few blocks and they hop on the underground, bus or tram, because their public transportation is incredibly reliable, cheap, and fast.

One of Hong Kong's "Wet Markets"

You could call this a hardware store, specializing in electrical items?!?!

There is a peculiar mix of western and Cantonese culture in Hong Kong.  Some restaurants are completely western and familiar looking, while others don’t have a menu in English, and the only recognizable words are the prices.  The supermarkets to my surprise have a lot of foreign brands and if you didn’t know any better you would think you were in a grocery store in North America, until you walk out the front door.  While English is the official language, most signs and publicity are in both English and Cantonese.  English speakers and ex-pats are plentiful in Hong Kong, but the people still manages to preserve their native culture and traditions. You definitely feel as though you are in Asia, but with English widespread, you are never too far out of your comfort zone.

Sensory overload is probably the best way to express one’s first impression of Hong Kong. I usually shut down when I take in too much stimulation, yet in Hong Kong, it’s the exact opposite.  It’s as if the city and people invite you to interact and participate in the ongoing chaos, which is really only on the surface.  Underneath, there is an underlying feeling of order and respect that I find peaceful.  My favorite sites in this city isn’t the skyline at night or the street markets selling unidentifiable food but the street signs.  All throughout the city there are posters and signs reminding me of the profound amount of respect the people have for one another.  What kinds of signs?  There are signs communicating in detail who, when, and how the public restrooms are cleaned. There are posters above elevator buttons that let you know they’ve been sterilized frequently.  There are also signs by the water fountains asking you not to spit, and others in the metro that ask that you kindly wear a mask if you are feeling sick, and yet others that remind you to cover your mouth with your hands when you cough. 

Thanks, that is good to know!

You might think, okay, just because there are signs attempting to maintain civil order, doesn’t mean that the people actually follow these norms.  After living in Barcelona for ten years, unfortunately I have become immune to the acts of vandalism, civil disorder, and the general disrespect that exists between people and their urban environment.  That is the norm for me, what is not normal is for people to want to take really good care of their city.  The people are also extremely pleasant. In fact, they go out of their way to help and take care of you. 

For instance, almost every public area has someone there just to guide people, answer questions, and assist.  In the underground, there are people who show you to the correct train platform, and if there is construction, they help you with the detour.  In the shopping malls, there are elevator attendants who push the button for you, and in public restrooms (yes there are loads and they are free) the cleaning staff greets you as you enter and are constantly cleaning the facilities, without receiving a tip.  I stopped and asked my fair share of people for directions on the street and they all seem to go out of their way to make sure I find where I am going.  I was blown away by the hospitality and respect people have for one another, not to mention you have to search high and low to find a piece of rubbish on the ground.

One of Hong Kong's many temples in the heart of hte city

I’m not a “big city” person by any means.  I protested my Barcelona assignment from The Rotary Club 10 years ago, requesting a small town that seemed more manageable.  But after a few months of living in the Catalan capital, I realized, there are “enormous engulfing” big cities, and “small and friendly” big cities.  Barcelona and Hong Kong fall under the category of small, friendly, and livable big cities.  Believe it or not, people do cycle in Hong Kong.  You won’t find hard-core cyclists on the main roads on Hong Kong Island or Kowloon, but if you head out to one of their many country parks and trails, there are cyclists.  Nature and outdoor activities are easily accessible in this city.  I have felt so comfortable during my week visit in Hong Kong that I could easily stay longer, I love this place.  Tomorrow I take the ferry west to cross the Chinese border and avoid a few of the larger industrial cities east of the Pearl River delta.  I’m terrified but curious, or perhaps you could say naïve.  Whatever I encounter on the other side, it is sure to be the start of another fascinating adventure as I being to explore the Asian continent.