August Monthly Update

Every month I will be doing a newsletter recapping the highlights from my trip.  The newsletter is below and can also be found with pictures on my website in the link below.  Enjoy!

Monthly Newsletter
http://www.theloongwayhome.com/#!monthly-newsletter/cof4

Statistics Update
http://www.theloongwayhome.com/#!statistics/c1g09

August Monthly Newsletter

Kilometers: 908   Riding Days: 9    Countries: Spain, France

Route Overview & Highlights

We departed Barcelona and followed the coast up to Palamos, then went to the interior and crossed the border at Vajols, coming down to Ceret and went parallel to the coast along the interior roads hitting Ceret, Narbonne, Montpellier, and Arles.  Then we explored villages in the Cote d'Azur region including: Charleval, Cadanet, La Tour d'Aigues, and Greoux-les-Bains.  We followed the Durance river along the Gorges du Verdon, for spectacular scenery to Castellane, then made out way down to Nice, France, following the bike path along the coast.

Featured Site

The Gorges du Verdon, France.  The scenery was amazing starting from the Lac de Ste. Croix all the way through the gorge up to Castellane. To go down to Nice, we went through the small Gorge du Loup.  The road winds through the gorge and you have a lot of overhanging rocks and waterfalls along the way.

School Visits

The school year has yet to begin!

Bike Mechanics

I've been fidgeting with the bike a lot, adjusting the saddle, handle bars, and brake cables to get it fine-tuned.  I braked too much descending a 16% slope for 2 km. and got my first flat tire from an overheated back rim.  For the record I've had one flat tire and only a few minor cable adjustments.

Support & Thanks

A special thanks to all the people who came to the Jardinets to see me off on the 23rd of August! It was great to have so much support! The CC Gracia members have been wonderful with all the animos they've given me and for accompanying me the first day. Camping International Calonge took good care of us all the first night and it was fun to have a final celebration with the gang at the camping.

Vicens was incredibly supportive the first week of the trip.  He's had a lot of patience as we have tried to find our groove with the long distance tour cycling.  We've persevered through navigating challenges, camping experiences, and the inconveniences that come about with the daily routine on the bike.

We also tried out first warm shower experience and had a great time with Claude, aka "Pere Noel" in Castellane, France. Wow, what a hospitable man!

August Expenses/Daily Average Expense:

255 Euros / 28,33 Euros

This Month's "Best of" Awards

Best Campsite: Camping International Calonge, Spain

Most Picturesque Scenery: The Gorges du Verdon, France

Most Difficult Climb: Col d'Ayen, Gorges du Verdon

Most Hospitable People: "Pere Noel" Claude at Camping Les Lavandes, Castellane

Most Delicious Treat: Anything from a French boulangerie, you can't go wrong!

Best Never to Return: Border crossing, La Vajol

Scrumptious Dinners: Pizza and Salad from Camping Greoux-les-Bains (restaurant)

Favorite Vocabulary: Vichenze (Vicens new nickname thanks to Laia and Thais)

Most Interesting Fact(s): We are mysteriously wondering why the French white snail seeks out plant stems and cover the tops of road signs in great masses.  It is a curious site!

Mama Mia un Giro del Mundi!!!

Així era el pasiatge creuant la part central d'Italia

No mes a creuar la frontera vaig començar amb unes noves aventures al país de pasta, pomodoros, pizza i gelato! Vaig trobar al Danilo als afores de San Remo i ni hi havia una bona connexió des del principi! Pot ser que el nostre ritme era igual, ja que el portava igual de pes que jo a la seva panxa....o potser perquè NO era un d'aquestos ciclistes "guais" d'Italià, que es massa guapo per anar amb casc (veig ciclistes sense casc aquí i crec que els conductors son els pitjors que he trobat) o pot ser simplement que desprès d'explicar-li que vaig fer el Milan San Remo fa 2 anys i ell viu al costat del ultimo "poggio" n'hi havia connexió. En tot cas, vaig gaudir de la seva campanià i em va fer riure molt el cometari del meu "giro del mundi" Em portava uns 30 kilòmetres fins al arribar al meu primer piste ciclable a Italia. 

Al principi els carrils de bici, o en Italiá, "les pistes ciclables" em van impactar i vaig pensar "uaua, aquests Italians són molt més llestos i preparats per la bici que pensava". Havien convertit les vies antigues del tren en carrils de bici just al costat del mar. Vaig fer el primer dia i mig al costat del mar bastant ràpids. No se si era perquè anava amb les cames descansades del dia anterior de fer "relax" amb el Vicens a Niza, o si era perquè está tot tan massificat al costat de l'aigua que vas passant les pobles en seguida sense enterrar-se. Mes a mes, la riviera Italiana és maca. Te'l seu estil distinta... Pobles plens de colors vius amb persianes verdes i carrers molts estrets amb molts arcs. Cada ciutat te mil piazzas i un duomo principal (un lloc ideal per fer un pícnic) Mes a mes l'ambient canvia radicalment a Itàlia- tot va! En comparació amb França, és molt mes caòtica però també dóna el seu encant i es fa molt divertida viatjar per arreu d'aquest país. Vaig fer la carretera de la costa fins a Gènova, una ciutat que deixa poc per a desitjar: gran, industrial, sorollosa. No em sopres que el Colon es va marxar per anar a descobrir el món...jo també ho haguis fet! Quina aventura per a intentar de seguir la carretera nacional dins de la ciutat sense ficar-me per l'autopista o cap altre túnel o peatge. 

Vaig deixar la costa d'Itàlia per anar a l'interior, direcció Piacenza. Quina pujada!!! I com no hi havia un càmping a prop, em tocava un dia llarg! Tampoc pots fiar molt en la senyalització aquí. Un ingenyer Alemany ha de revisar els cartells de les carreteres Italians. Em fan riure molt. Primer, les carreteres no tenen noms, vull dir no utilitzen números. Van per noms de pobles. I pot ser que veus el nom del poble i es queda a 18 kilòmetres. Vas uns 3 o 4 kilòmetres i el proper cartell diu et falta 25 kilòmetres pel mateix poble. Avui m'ha passat que en una cruïlla, per un costat posava Venècia a 25 i venint de l'altre direcció posava 29. És que així és Itàlia. A ells, tot més igual! Ho has de prendre tot amb la calma i recordar de no confiar massa en les coses! Un altra cosa curiosa és que normalment al costat de la carretera, vas veient publicitat pels llocs que és queden endavant. Normal, no? Tu saps que en 3 km tens un McDonalds o en 5 km un supermercat. Però a Itàlia anuncien llocs i coses que has passat fa 10 o 20 kilòmetres, llavors és un caos total... Que fa la gent!? Paren i giren?!? No entenc! 

El segon dia encara confiava amb les pistes ciclables i les agafava sempre quan n'hi havia. Anaven al costat de la carretera uns 5, 10 kilòmetres i eren super tranquils. Ja desprès de 5 dies, no faig cas a cap!!! Comencen al principi del poble i al millor duran 1,5km i en aquest tram, va passant d'una banda a l'altre de la carretera i no saps on posar-te, a l'esquerra o la dreta! En l'oficina de turisme de Cremona em van donar un mapa de la regió amb totes les pistes ciclables i començava el dia molt il·lusionada pel fet de què podria evitar les carreteres principals. Després d'una hora intentant de trobar-les, vaig abandonar la idea i optar per la carretera normal i corrent. I fins ara, vaig millor que a França, perquè no he agafat cap autostrada ni pista sense asfalt i he pogut navegar "bé" Gènova i Venècia! Estic explorant una part del pais que no coneixia gens, la regió del sur de Llombardia. Vaig creuar les muntanyes al nord de Ligúria i vaig arribar a Cremona. Em va impactar la candidat de ciclistes: gent gran i jove, gent amb la compra per sobre la bici, els gossos a les cistelles, gent enamorada de mà en mà,..... He vist de tot! I els parcs també estan plens de ciclistes, gent seria fent voltes de la pista. Estava convençuda que el Gobern s'havia fet un plan per a donar incentiu a les ciclistes, és que mai he vist tantes...però a nit, quan estava amb una família em van dir que era simplement pel fet de calers,... Amb crisis tots han tornat a la bici! 

També sorprèn la cantitat de camps i granges. Hi ha blat de moro per tot arreu, i un món de terreny amb tomàquets (Una cosa menys per comprar al supermercat). També en aquesta regió he vist tot tipu d'arbre de fruita: kiwi, préssec, poma, albercoc, pruïnes,.....però encara faig les meves compres "correctes" a les parades de fruita de la carretera. Ni demano una bossa perquè la fruita em dura dos minuts, és el àpat perfecte de mig mati, això o un gelato, (mai és massa d'hora per comprar un)! 

A nit una família simpàtica Italiana em va recollir. Andrea era un home petit però molt explosiu amb la manera de parlar. A part de ser químic té una granja orgànica al costat de casa seva. Sílvia és profe de mates i cuina unes pastes impressionants!!! I els seus fills Elissa i Francesco eren super divertits. Menys mal que parlaven castellà també! Pensava que anava bé pillant la majoria de les coses que deia la gent aquí a Itàlia, ja que sembli molt Espanyol i Catalá, però avui era tot el contrari. Estava desesperada per a trobar un McDonald per a wifi i he preguntat a un iaio cuidant el seu jardí. Hi Havia entès que tenia una filla que parlava angles i que anava a buscar-la per indicar-me el camí. Quina cara de sorpresa que he posat quan ha tornat amb una ampolla d'aigua de 2 litres... Uff, em sabia greu no agafar-la. Quasi no em cap l' ampolla de 1,5L i pesa molt, com a posar una de 2L! 

En fin, avui, he arribat a Venècia després de 14 dies i 1,561 km (segur que els 61km són de les voltes que he fet per a trobar les pistes ciclables). Em trobo genial, amb unes cames molt fortes, preparades per a fer una mica de turisme demà a Venècia i desprès un petit desvio cap a unes muntanyes que em criden MOLT la atenció!

Baixant de les muntanyes que quedan a munt de Genoa

Hi ha tomaquets per tot arreu! 49 centims el kilo.

Francesco, Melissa, i Elissa, en Legnago, Italia

Piazza del Duomo, Cremona

Mantova, Italia

The Splendid Surprise of Company

Up until now, I had never traveled with anyone on my bike tours.  It isn't always easy to convince others to sign up for a bike tour for their holiday.  The idea of pedaling 100 km a day with weight, camping and crossing your fingers in hopes of a hot shower at the end of the day, and being "okay" with sweating incessantly as you sightsee isn't for everyone.  So I've always set out on my own, and never really known anything else!  And to tell you the truth, I've never felt lonely, because you are never really on your own! You always end up meeting other people, whether they be other tour cyclist, curious and hospitable elderly couples, families,....there is always someone to talk to and keep you company at different moment through out your trip, and when you encounter them, it is an rewarding moment.

Take for instance Day 4 of our trip on our way to Montpellier.  Prior to my departure I had stopped by Espaibici in Barcelona to get a few last minute items for my bike.  The guys at the shop were asking me about my trip when they told me they were expecting a Japanese tour cyclist shortly who was cycling throughout Europe selling coffee on her bike.  It caught my attention, first because it is such an unusual project, and second, because it is so rare to run into Asian cyclists.  Well here we were on day 4,  450 km from Brcelona, desperate for a lunch stop on our way to Montpellier.  We randomly chose to stop in the next closest village on the map to see if there was a supermarket.  Sure enough there was a Spar and to our surprise there were two bikes parked outside, fully loaded, and one with a coffee shop bumper sticker.  What are our chances of finding these two cyclists in a small village, not to mention, one happened to be Rie, who was on her way from Berlin to Barcelona, selling coffee on her bike as she rides.  We didn't know each other at all, but the simple feeling of empathy and pride brings you together even if your visit only lasts ten minutes  There is a common understanding and respect amongst cyclists that acts as support and encouragement when you encounter one another.

We had the same feelings when Vicens and I decided to use the Warm Shower network to host  us in Castellane.  Claude, aka "Pere Noel" told us he would gladly host us at his camp site in town.  We were getting excited thinking that maybe he would let us stay in a bungalow for a discounted price.  However, we barely had our bikes unloaded before he had prepared a giant 4 course dinner for us, putting us up in his luxurious apartment, and made us feel like we had known each other for years.  Not to mention our visit coincided with that of 2 other cyclists and the 5 of us had the most enjoyable dinner and evening sharing stories and learning about one another.  In the morning, we had a "petit dejourner royale" as I called it, spoiled with fresh baked croissants and baguettes, homemade jams, yogurt, and delicious coffee. 

For the start of The Loong Way Home, I've been fortunate to be accompanied by Vicens for the first week.  He deserves a prize for his patience and companionship.  I can be rather stubborn and bossy at times, and he's been the most easy going companion.  It took us awhile to get in our groove and figure out our daily routine.  It's a shame that he has to head back now that we've developed a certain understanding traveling together.  I've been spoiled with good company, a photographer, and entertaining conversations.  We've had burping contests, and played trivia, hum, and make funny grunting noises as we climb.  It's been a fun way to set off on my loong way home! 

We'd occasionally get a few strange looks from people we encounter, especially if we tell them how far I'm cycling, but for the most part, two tour cyclist don't seem to make the heads turn like a solo female tour cyclist.  I can't wait to see what those Italians say as they see a young blonde woman cycling by with 30 kilos of gear on her bike! Oh boy, let the good times roll!!!

Dinner at Camping Les Lavandes (Castellane) with Paul, Marc, Claude, and Vicens

Random encounter with Rie on her way to Barcelona selling coffee on her bike

My loyal trip companion: Vicens

Lac de Ste Croix

The "Breaking-In" Period

At this stage of the game, I'm in the "breaking-in" phase of my bike tour.  Remember the last time you bought a new pair of shoes?  I am always so excited to wear them, but I never do a proper job of breaking them in.  I try them on a bit at home, look in the mirror several times to reassure myself of the new purchase, decide which outfit(s) they match, and then usually wear them all the next day with a big smile on my face, regardless of the fact that they rub on the back of my heel or the top of my small toe!  By the end of the day, I usually have a blister, but I know that the pain is temporary until my feet adapt and get used to the new shoes.

This is exactly where I am with The Loong Way Home at the moment.  My bike (which I have yet to name) is comfortable, but I don't quite have the correct fitting.  I'm adjusting the seat a few millimeters up, down, then forward, and back,....in the meantime my bum is getting tougher as the Brooks saddle gives more and more to the shape of my bum.  My hands are building up calluses as they adjust to their position on the handle bar.  And the weight, well, that is about to change as I send a good 10 kg worth of gear with Vicens!

Camping, this is an art in itself which I have yet to fine tune.  From the time we roll-up to the campsite to getting all the gear unpacked and the tent pitched, air mattress inflated, sleeping bag prepared, showered, and clothes washed, it is a good hour or more.  In the morning we haven't managed to collect everything, pack up, eat breakfast and be on the road in less than two hours. And your body needs some time to adapt to sleeping on a 5 centimeter thick air mattress, in a tent that is as wide as I am.  The first night we were treated like VIP at Camping International Calonge and we wanted to celebrate so we stayed up dancing until 1am.  The second night we didn't see the town disco next to the camping and woke up at 1am to the night session.  The following night a windstorm hit us.  I managed to sleep soundly with my earplugs, meanwhile Vicens thought a hurricane was passing through.  We took refuge in a hotel in Montpellier and night 5 we both had our first restful night at a campground.

Then comes nutrition.  Right now it is hard to pedal longer than an hour and a half without stopping for a second breakfast.  And every time I see a fruit stand my mouth starts to water and I crave a fresh piece of fruit (or 4 or 5).  My body is in a bit of as shock, trying to figure out the best way to fuel itself for all the riding.  And making dinner isn't an easy feat either!  You have to figure out how to make a delicious meal all with just one pot and chopping veggies in the bottom of a tupperware. I have to admit a few nights we've given in and just gone out to eat!

Navigation, at this stage in the trip also has room for improvement.  So far we've managed to ride on paved and unpaved bike paths, canal paths, small rural roads, local highways, and yes, a freeway!!!  After riding in France all summer long, I still don't understand the logic behind the French road system.  One minute you are on a small rural road with a wide shoulder and a bike stencil and the next thing you know, you are merging onto a 4 lane highway.  We end up riding on the "yellow" or "white" roads on the Michelin maps, but at times we can't help but take a "red" road which is much busier.  And we definitely try to avoid all those roads that look like an undulating snake, because we all know what all the switchbacks mean.

When my bum is no longer sore, and my hands have a few more calluses, I won't have to stop to eat every two hours. I will also manage to pack up my gear in the same amount of time it takes to set up, and then, I say that I have "broken-in" my body to the life of bike touring and will be ready to roll for kilometers and months to come!

Day 1 & 2

235 km of the 24,000 are behind me!!!! What an incredible first two day! Arriving at the jardinets at 8 am with so many friend to see me off...teachers, students, friend, the Gracia guys. After the goodbyes it was like a normal club outing towards the Maresme. Vicens and I were accompanied until Canelles and even did our normal breakfast stop in Arenys. Then the two of us headed off solo, but not for long as we randomly encountered another club member just outside of Tossa, on his moto, who acted as our personal photographer for another 20 km. The road was hilly from Tossa to Sant Feliu but with my granny gear I faired rather well!

Albert met us just shy of Sant Feliu and took us all the way to his camping where there were another handful or two of friends waiting. We got the VIP treatment at International Camping of Calonge!  Somehow we managed to stay awake and dance, closing down the disco at midnight.

Susanna, Jordi, and Nora managed to wake up early to see us off as we started off day 2 mentally prepared, ready for lots of climbing as we opted to cross the French border at Ceret.  Vicens had done it before and had fond memories of the road....ah the road...... he failed to leave out the part that there is a gravel section for 2 km going downhill. Rather than taking a picture at a conventional border crossing with the sign of the entering country ours was on a gravel path that had a height restriction out of all things. The descent was a rather uncomfortable silence...the type when you know you've made a mistake but know you are stuck with it. Not to mention we got caught in our first downpour accompanied by a thunder and lightening for the last hour of our route to Ceret.

After taking refuge in a cafe, sipping a hot chocolate, and making a plan if action for the night, we decided we'd had enough bad luck for one day and were optimistic it would stop raining so we could camp comfortably.  I  went ahead and pitched my tent under the picnic area while Vicens pressed his luck under the dark clouds....actually he was really just embarrased to use the picnic area for a campsite! In the tour cycling world there is NO SHAME!!!

We've learned our lesson early....those small rural roads aren,'t always what you think...and although cyclist look for roads with no traffic, sometimes it could be a sign that there really isn't a road!!! Vicens has resigned from drawing routes-it's now become our nightly activity during dinner.

Day 3 has to be a easier if we stay off dirt paths and keep dry, although it can't be as entertaining as today! 

We have yet to get a good nights sleep....who would have guessed the disco in a small French village is right next to a municipal campground...what a rude awakening we had at 1am!!

Crossing the border in a unique way!

Susanna made it up in the morning to see us off!

Ceret after the rain storm

First country: Spain, now on to France

Tick Tock Tick Tock....Tomorrow it is!

The test ride,....probably should have gone out during the day and climbed a hill!

Actually, today it is as I sit here and write this blog entry. Needless to say with all the trip preparations I haven't been sleeping well, or rather at all!! All I want to do is get on my bike and ride--The last load of laundry is in the washing machine, the house is clean, the panniers are packed, and my clothes for tomorrow are set aside. Compared to all the errands I've been running, pedaling 100km a day is going to be a huge sigh of relief!! Let the fun begin!

La famosa, jaja!!!

David y Miquel de Espaibici ayudandome hacer los últimos ajustes

And it comes to a whopping 15,42 kilos without the Panniers @Velodrom Studio 

How do I feel? Nervous, excited, ready, and....HEAVY--the bike weighs 40 kg (88 lbs.) fully loaded.  As a friend told me today, all I have to do is pretend I've gained about 30 kg.  I put on new tires, have my GPS, a tail light, and even managed to find a place for a bell.  As they say in Spanish, soy una globera total!!

I can't thank my family and friends enough for all their support and encouragement.  I've had total strangers approach me on the street and congratulate me after reading the article in the newspaper, and Despite the emails from my website and messages on my facebook page, reality still hasn't set in.  Hard to believe I'm leaving Barcelona after 10 years.  I always said I'd go home when I get bored, but that word just isn't part of my vocabulary!  I just need a break to follow a crazy dream I have...and if I don't do it now, I won't ever do it!  So instead of saying goodbye, to all my catalan, spanish, and ex-pat friends, think of this as a fins despres, aqui a un parell de anys!  Un beso muy fuerte a todos y gracias por apoyar "la guiri" tanto!

La despedida! I didn't take one photo, but got a picture with everyone!

David, Missy, y Lola

Cantabria or Oregon?

Collado de Hoz. Photo courtesy of Pablo Moreno

There was something so familiar about Cantabria. Green hills with tall mountains in the background, streams and rivers flowing all around and hiking paths galore! If it hadn’t been for the occasional “cocidos de muntaña” and “tortillas de patatas rellenos”, I would have thought I were in Oregon!

After the hectic schedule of the Tour de France and the bitter hospitality in France, being in the north of Spain was paradise! With a later ride start time, we could sleep in and sometimes we finished the rides so early, we had the afternoon free for sight seeing. The roads were empty except for all the livestock, amphibians’ crossings, and the sporadic “abuelos” out for their daily exercise (why they choose to walk on the road when there are loads of trails, I don not know!). With the Picos de Europe always by our sides we rode from Villacarriedo to Pola de Leña, with only one van hour and a half van transfer. Some of the most picturesque climbs included Puertos de Lunada, Lagos Covadonga, Collado de Hoz, and the painful and grueling climb up the Alto de Anglirú (a constantly climb with an average slope of 12,5%, although some sections were as steep at 24%0).

There's a first time for every thing and on the Trans Cantabria there were a lot of first time experiences. With sweaty palms, for the first time, I had to drive the sag van, not to mention on the Anglirú- yes, manual shifting! It was also the first time I stayed in "Paradores", both in Fuentes De and Cangas de Onís, and the first time I double-fisted beer and an ice cream! It was the first time I heard someone refer to a "Spanish Tortilla" as a potato quiche after their first bite, and the first time I had to enforce the "no beer stop" with the B Group unless our hotel was within 5 km! Obviously it wasn't the first time I had women clients, but I must say I had excellent female companionship on the roads during the trip! What good times we had on the Trans Cantabria! 

The B group with ride leaders Martin and Melissa-another climb! Photo courtesy of Pablo Moreno

Cantabria is a cycling paradise and definitely a place to return to explore even more! Now it's off to the Alps-the mythical climbs await!

The Picos de Europe surrounded us most of the time.

When you can't choose between an ice cream and a beer......

Photo courtesy of Pablo Moreno