Showing posts with label food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food. Show all posts

Monday, January 26, 2015

Sawadee Ka


Greetings from the land of the jack fruit

Where in the world is Melissa?  Great question! After my last blog post, I left it clear that I wasn't in Oregon anymore. I was enjoying being home, but usually my visits are about 3 weeks in length and during the summer. I had been at home since my birthday and the winter rain had settled in and despite having the company of my family, I have a hard time coping with the grey weather. I made the most of my time at home to visit family and friends. I went back and forth between Portland and Eugene spending time with my niece and nephews and fixing up my bike with a friend. In Eugene, I cooked up a storm for my parents, my mom and I worked on a few sewing projects, and I plugged away at the job applications. My days were long tackling a loong list of "things to do" and my bike trip seemed to be something of the far off past.

The bike getting a complete makeover

Sewing projects with Mom.  I design and she executes it with the sewing machine

I knew I wasn't going to last long at home. After having so much independence and being used to living far from home and in a sunny climate, I needed to make plans to do something besides sit around at home! I'm sure I could have landed a job working at a restaurant or cafe, but instead I decided to take advantage of my freedom, having two months free before I needed to be in France.

Christmas morning, nothing beats opening presents when you are a kid!


Gwyneth and Peter demonstrating self control with the empanadillas as a Christmas dinner appetizer
Spanish Tapas feast on Christmas Eve with the family

Ringing in the New Year with Mom and Dad and a Vietnamese Salad Roll feast along with Dim Sum

I left just after the New Year and headed to Bangkok, a ticket I purchased back when I thought there was a chance I still might get in to the job fair for international teachers at the start of January or at least be in the same location during the exact dates to meet with schools anyways. This seemed to make the most sense to me. In an ideal world, I would have landed a job prior to arriving in Bangkok and therefore I would be able to travel freely around SE Asia with plenty of destinations left to explore on bike. I was really counting on GEMS World Academy to offer me a job, and thankfully they did, giving me two months to travel. I had taken care of most of the footwork prior in order to start gathering paperwork for a swiss work visa, this just goes without say when you work in the international circuit: background checks, official transcripts, notarized diplomas, I had collected all the necessary paperwork and had it organized at home waiting to send off.

Never flew from the US to SE Asia, always from Europe, that is one (three actually) LOONG flight!
I found myself in Bangkok on January 6th, with my bike bike plus the rest of my luggage that needed to go to Lyon in March. Thankfully, I was able to stay with the same host I had met last year and left my luggage at their house while I traveled. Originally the plan was to explore Northern Thailand and Myanmar. Antsy, I didn't want to wait around for my Burma visa, nor deal with a country that has been cut off to tourism for many centuries, I set off pedaling north, thinking I would instead explore northwest Laos in addition to Thailand's mountainous region. Thailand is a welcoming country for tourists, especially bike tourism. They have an unbelievable network of roads and even the smallest rural roads have decent surfaces. Food is in an abundance, and not just your “run-of-the-mill” staples, we are talking amazing curries, stir fries, soups, meats, vegetarian dishes, salads, sweets, and of course my favorites, iced coffees and exotic fruit. It took me a whole hour after I built my bike to find jack fruit as I wandered the streets of Bangkok. I was so excited to get on my bike again, I flew in on a Tuesday morning and left the following morning, pedaling out of Bangkok, headed to the northwest.

Couldn't have asked for a more peaceful first night's rest in the raft house

My first stop a small town 60 kilometers, from the bustling city, the perfect distance for my first day on the road, where I stayed with a Warmshowers host Chris and his thai wife Karina, who run a guesthouse called “The Hidden Holiday House. Chris is an avid tour cyclist and had an abundance of route suggestions and maps to study. Not having studied my route much prior, my stay there was a key part of my trip planning. Not to mention, I got more insight into the Thai culture, reviewed my Thai and made my language cheat sheet, and enjoyed a night's rest in their raft house on the river in their backyard. I don't think I have ever seen a river quite like the Tha Chin that flows so heavily with the tides. When I arrived the current was moving from right to left, and later in the afternoon, I thought I was going crazy when the water all of a sudden had changed direction and was flowing left to right. The current of the river rocked me to bed that night, along with the accumulated jet lag, and I felt quite refreshed in the morning as I set out for my first real day of touring.

This was the section of pineapples on the side of the road, cut, peeled, and ready to eat!

Cha.......How I missed you so and my carnation condensed milk!

Oh, Southeast Asia, how I missed you, and Thailand especially where you have an amazing network of roads, the people are trustworthy you can leave your bike fully loaded and unattended just about anywhere and not have to worry, and the people constantly honk at you, smile, and give you a thumbs up! I forgot how much I have to exercise self-control and actually pedal before looking for the next little roadside stall to stop for a treat. What a sucker I am for all their little treats wrapped in banana leaves. I'm able to discern whether the contents are sweet or savory, and that is just about it, which makes eating such an adventure because you never know what to expect! Fruit galore lines the streets even out in the middle of nowhere, and you can easily eat your heart out and spend under 5 dollars a day! It seems surreal that 4 months ago I was pedaling in Alaska and found a bowling ball size watermelon selling for eight dollars. Here, the same size melon is priced just under a dollar and ever so sweet and fresh. You go through different regions while biking, for 10 to 20 kilometers all the roadside stands will be selling pomelo's, then the next strip of road has watermelons for sale. Then there might be a pause, and it is pineapple territory. It seems to me that if a roadside vendor wanted to really strike it rich, they'd drive 50 kilometers where everyone is selling tamarinds, and set up a stall to sell tangerines. But that is just it! Fruit and produce is so fresh here in Thailand, chances are you look around and just beyond the roadside stall is the farm crop where it grew.

I can easily justify carrying one of these guys on the back of my bike

Maybe this is where the watermelons in Alasaka came from.  The smallest start at 30 cents and the largest $1.20

Papaya salad or "Som Tom" a go to meal for 90 cents

I didn't say I necessarily eat all the food I see.....

Something else I missed about Southeast Asia are people's pleasant demeanors. I have yet to find an angry, ornery, or upset person. Regardless of their age, they all seem to have a smile on their face and are keen on acknowledging your presence. The people here in Thailand work hard. They have long days all thriving around the hours of sunlight. In fact, most people and places start surfacing at the crack of dawn. How can you not wake up with what seems like a procession of roosters coming through town in the morning. Regardless of the size of town I end up finding an accommodation, I never have to use my alarm in the morning. It is impossible not to hear the roosters crowing in the morning, but likewise, in the evening, when the sun goes goes and it gets dark, towns pretty much shut down. Sometimes it can be hard to find a restaurant or food stall open beyond 8pm, but then again, you are in the land of the 7-Eleven's and there is one on every street corner, open 24 hours a day in every decent-sized town.

Road markers every kilometer so you know when you hit the next town, although you might not know the name of it....


Bike stores are everywhere too with an abundance of stock!


I'm not the only one who has realized Thailand is a cycling paradise. It seems everyday I run into at least one other tour cyclist, and many times they are Thai's themselves on shorter week or two week-long tours. In the late afternoon, when I approach a town, there are usually a handful of cyclists on the road, out for what seems to be their daily ride, dressed to a “T” in cycling gear, covered from head to toe, protecting themselves from the sun. Which also makes me laugh. January, it is the dry season here in Thailand and one of the coldest months. Mornings are pleasantly chilly hovering around 12C to 17C, (55F to 60F) but come 11am, the sun has warmed everything up and temperatures soar into the mid-twenties, and even low 30C's (low 90F's). I smirk every time a motor scooter passes me and the driver is wearing a down jacket and long pants, or a knit hat. I'm in t-shirts and shorts, lathered in sunscreen no less, but pleasantly warm pedaling along. At night kids are commonly wearing fleece pijama, which goes to show you just how hot this country can be during the summer months!

Top notch bike with all the gear, this thai cyclist helped me locate a place to sleep in a town without any hotels


The down coats just crack me up, a bit extreme

They even bundle their dogs in winter gear.  Poor guy, I think he's overheating!

I was excited to cycle in Southeast Asia again, now that I have more confidence from my previous trip. I hadn't done much wild camping when I hit Southeast Asia last year and found myself staying at simple guesthouses. My intention this time was to do more camping, especially in temples. With my funds running low, I thought this made sense, but now that I know I will shortly have an income once again, I've gotten a bit lazy and seem to be staying primarily at those basic guesthouses once again. For just under ten dollars you have a simple room with clean sheets, hot water, and a fan, which serve a dual purpose in drying my clothes I wash each night and keeping the mosquitoes from buzzing. I have camped a handful of times when prices soared at guesthouses, but I'm embarrassed to admit, it has been in the lawns of guesthouses, where I was able to use their toilet and shower facilities, and was even served breakfast and coffee in the morning!


Like I said, cheap simple accommodation everywhere,....Don't think they realized the bad translation here.....do you?

I love my little bungalows!

Thailand, it is pretty hard to beat and easy to get lazy, even while riding 100 plus kilometers (60 miles) a day!



A serene natural paradise......... 

Thursday, August 21, 2014

The Art of Eating at an All-You-Can-Eat-Buffet


The scene of the crime, Bell 2 Lodge on the Stewart Cassiar Highway, 92km north of Meziadin Junction, CA

I'm sure many of you are snickering just reading the title of this post, I salivated while remembering my experience at Bell 2 Lodge's breakfast buffet just brainstorming how I wanted to express myself in this post. You see, I've started listening to an animated podcast about food, called Sporkful. The announcer, Dan Pashman, advertises his podcast saying “It's not for foodies, it's for eaters,” using the motto: Eat More, Eat Better!” I have to admit, I have a love-hate relationship with his podcast. I enjoy learning about food and hearing his commentary, but at the same time I find myself whipping way the drool rolling down my chin as he talks about things like S'mores, the perfect bite composition, preparing burgers, and Thanksgiving feasts. As a tour cyclists, I fall into the category of an eater, who takes the motto, “Eat More, Eat Better” to a new level! In fact one of my host's kids back in the Denver area was very impressed “for my enthusiasm for eating,” as they put it! Therefore, it might be rather shocking to know that I haven't visited an all-you-can eat-buffet for about 10 or 15 years. Yes, I've stayed at hotels with complimentary buffet breakfasts, but that doesn't count. It is included in the price of your room. I do have to admit, that the “stuff-yourself-to-the-brim” philosophy isn't an eating experience that I seek out. I don't think it is particularly healthy and the image that comes to my mind are obese people with huge plates in front of them overflowing with heaps of processed, low-quality food items, eating way more than they actually need or want! Ever since moving to Europe, I'm all about quality over quantity.

A deliciously entertaining podcast for serious eaters
You might say I was inspired by Dan and his podcast, or the fact that I hadn't been to buffet for years, but to tell you the truth, when you hear about a restaurant for 400 kilometer from cyclist after cyclist that you pass on the road, by the time I arrived at the Bell 2 Lodge, there was no way I was going to miss out on this food experience! upon my recent visit to the Bell 2 Lodge on the Stewart-Cassiar Highway. It was his podcast and my visit to the Bell 2 Lodge Breakfast buffet that inspired me to write this post, and to tell you the truth, I could probably write a dozen posts about all my wonderful meal experiences on the road! Food and eating consumes about a fourth of my day, sleeping the other fourth, and pedaling the other half!

Eating in action: YUMM!!!!!
My recent experience at Bell 2 Lodge was my first “all-you-can-eat” buffet experiences in probably 10 to 15 years! Hard to believe? The Ever since waitressing at a typical diner in York, PA, and living in Europe where quality resides above quantity, buffet eating never crossed my mind as an appetizing experience! Most tour cyclists don't turn down an offer to eat at a buffet because of the value of the meal. Thinking of an all-you-can-eat buffet, I'm reminded of two cyclists I met in rural Utah. They shared with me their experience at the Pizza Hut buffet and I couldn't stop laughing. They had been living off of tuna fish and peanut butter for weeks and all of a sudden they pedaled upon a Pizza Hut and decided to stuff their faces full of greasy pizza, wings, pasta, and tons of other processed foods. Their body went into complete shock and it took them a good 5 hours to digest their meal on the grass in front of the Pizza Hut, incapable of pedaling another mile. Yuk!
A pleasant atmosphere inside the Bell 2 Lodge

A rustic elegant log cabin style interior

However, the breakfast buffet at Bell 2 Lodge, is in a totally different category of restaurants, it's fine dining, not fast food, and my experience there was absolutely delightful, nothing I regret, in fact, I'd cycle back there tomorrow, if it were on the way, just to repeat it! As I mentioned, cyclist after cyclist I passed, a dozen to be precise, heading south from Alaska, raved about the breakfast at this lodge. They had all camped at the tenting site at Bell 2, which has an RV park as well as cabins and rooms, and visited the buffet the following morning. I'm not one to follow the masses, but when the masses are tour cyclists, pedaling passionately and love their food as much as their cycling, I take their advice to heart!
The first customer is parked outside eagerly waiting for breakfast

I rarely arrive places early, but this was a special occasion
In order to make the most of my buffet experience, I did some research prior to my visit. It's important to know key information like what time the buffet opens, prices, and must-try dishes. Bell 2 Lodge is about 150 km from Stewart, making for a long day of pedaling, but with the incentive of a delicious breakfast the following morning, 250 km would have been possible! I arrived at their lodge just shy of 10pm, a long day indeed, but I was glad to be at a proper campground. I had seen a lot of bears that evening alongside the road, so free camping was out of the question. I wanted to eat breakfast, not be eaten for breakfast!

Food warmers with savory treats inside, soon to be visited 




The Bell 2 Lodge Restaurant, is like an oasis, in the middle of nowhere. It's a beautiful log cabin style lodge that has been recently renovated with additional Alp-like chalets on a wide open lot that backs up to one of the many lakes in the area, and the Bell River (hence the name). All the RV guests were shocked to see me roll in so late with my head torch on, but they welcomed me and were excited to learn of my travels and enthusiasm for the breakfast buffet. It was too late to check in at the front desk, but luckily there was another cyclist camped out, Cress, from Smithers, BC, who was just headed off to bed. He let me share his site. I set up camp, took a warm shower, left my food in the campground bathroom, and went to bed. I was too tired to prepare dinner, and settled for dried fruit and yogurt, which I had bought in Stewart that morning. I set my alarm for 6am, thinking it would be plenty of time to pack-up and be the first at the door for the buffet.

Wouldn't you know, I was the first one at the door, in fact, I got to the lodge restaurant 5 minutes before they opened. You see, I had been told that they don't replenish the buffet once they run out of food, but actually this isn't true either. Krysten, my young waitress from Smithers, BC welcomed me and helped me find a strategic seat, close to the buffet with an electrical plug to charge all my technology. Like I said, I hadn't been to a buffet in years, so I was overwhelmed upon my arrival. I decided to assess the situation first; I did a “dry run” or so you could say, walking through the buffet to assess my options. At the start of the long buffet table there was yogurt, cereal, milk, and fruit. Following these cold items, there were three large warmers. The first was filled with what looked to be french toast, the second with potatoes, bacon, and sausages, and the third with an egg breakfast sandwich. At the end of the buffet table there was a variety of juices, followed by coffee and tea. I should preface my buffet experience by admitting that I'm a Libra, a sign known for being creative and indecisive, two traits that strongly characterize my personality, both an asset and hindrance to a buffet experience. Although I'm not obsessed with horoscopes and such, I'm typically have a hard time making decisions when faced with a million choices. Breakfast, however, is not so overwhelming, because I know myself well and my eating preferences, even when I'm ravenous! My rules are simple: I have to eat sweets before savory items, cold items prior to warm ones, and along those same lines, juice before coffee.

Plate, bowl, number one: Fruit, cottage cheese, granola and honey on top
Hence, I started with yogurt, cereal, and fruit, plate (bowl) number one! They had yogurt and cottage cheese, both good choices to top fresh fruit. Cottage cheese took precedence, it's become an obsession on my trip, ever since I landed in North America. Cottage Cheese doesn't exist in Spain and it is a delicious dairy product filled with protein that can be prepared to satisfy a sweet tooth or a savory craving. I first loaded my bowl with fruit, piled the cottage cheese of top, sprinkled it with granola, and poured honey over it all! I accompanied this with a glass of orange juice and prepared a cup of coffee for when I finished off the juice. Had this been any other day on my trip, my first trip through the Bell 2 buffet would have been plenty a breakfast for myself, at least to hold me a few hours 
pedaling. However, with all the gourmet items to choose from for breakfast, this was just my appetizer.

My favorite dish by far, cinnamon roll French toast, a brilliant invention!
My second trip through was my favorite. I love French toast, especially when you can top it with yogurt and fresh fruit. Bell 2 had all of the above, but of noteworthy mention was their French toast, made from none other than cinnamon rolls. What an invention, their chef is a genius! I had a generous portion of French toast smothered in syrup, vanilla yogurt, and fresh fruit. Yes, I have an intense sweet tooth! By far this plate was my favorite of the five I ended up eating; you just can't top cinnamon French toast! Trip three, stands out as being my only entirely savory plate and therefore deserves an honorable mention. It was a combo plate with a breakfast egg sandwich on an English muffin, topped with cheese and a tomato, which I then accompanied with flavorful sausage, home fries, and bacon. I quickly opened the breakfast sandwich and placed the bacon on top, to make a heartier sandwich, a brilliant decision!

Multi-tasking galore: eating, blogging, chatting, and charging......

I snuck a bit more cottage cheese on plate #3
By the third plate, needless to say, my hunger had dissipated. I also had company at my table, distracting me for focusing all my energy on the food. Cress joined me and my pace slowed, talking between bites, but his company was welcomed. By the time I was ready for plate four, we also had 2 other cyclists join us. I didn't realize there were so many other cyclists at the lodge when I rolled in the previous night, but like I said, the Bell 2 Lodge is famous in the world of tour cyclists. When there is delicious food en route, word travels fast, far, and furiously! Mark was cycling with Allan, who was driving a SAG van behind him. They had started in Anchorage and were making their way south from to their hometown of Cheyenne, Wyoming. They were they shocked to hear that I had been through Cheyenne about 2 months ago, starting my trip in Spain, originally. Mark, Allan, and Cress visited the buffet twice. They must be weathered buffet participants, with more self control. I went back for a fourth, and what I thought was my final plate while sitting with them. As they say, when in good company, eat good food, or at least that is what I say!

Still smiling and still eating!

The cyclists at Bell 2 Lodge for breakfast, fun company

By this time, Krysten, my waitress was laughing, but not at all shocked by my fourth trip. She told me they get on average at least a dozen cyclists a week during the biking season and is now not surprised by our appetite! She was ready with the camera once again, to document plate number 4, which was another combo plate: sweet and savory. I forgot to mention that after savory, I also like a bit of sweet. Plate four consisted of another piece of French toast, yogurt and fruit, and potatoes topped with bacon, YUMMM!!!!! Was I really hungry at this point? I don't remember.....which brings up the subject of buffets and healthy eating. The “not-so-healthy” component of participating in an all-you-can-eat buffet is that you always end up eating more than you want or need. But is there really such thing as eating too much when you are riding your bike 8 hours a day, day after day, week after week? The long answer would require visiting more buffets, but the short answer is NO! Which is why I had no problem going back for plate number four. I must admit that after this plate, I had reached the right amount of fullness, you know where you are satisfied and content, but don't have to unbotton your pants to be more comfortable. I could actually sip and enjoy my coffee and catch up on emails after saying goodbye to my cycling companions.

It's a pathetic plate, but it still counts, and I enjoyed it equally: Plate #5

I hung around another hour or so, while several other clients came and went. Krysten kept the buffet plenty stocked for all their guests up until closing at 11am. Just before then, I couldn't resist just one more plate, plate number 5. They had replaced the French toast with pancakes, so of course I had to try them. It was a rather pathetic plate in comparison to number 2 or 3, but I topped up on sweets with a couple of pancakes, granola, and fruit! By then I was the last guests, after being the first to arrive, living the buffet experience to the fullest: 4 hours of fun filled with delicious food, enjoyable company, and wonderful service! Krysten went about cleaning everything up and let me chill out in the restaurant finishing up a couple of things on my computer. The kitchen staff was still around, so I introduced myself, told them their food had become renown among tour cyclists.

In the kitchen with head chef James, at Bell 2 Lodge

I started pedaling around noon. By then the clouds had rolled in and it was starting to drizzle, but I couldn't be bothered by a little rain, I had left Bell 2 content, with a full tummy, and plenty of nutrients to tide me over the 120km to my next campsite. Wouldn't you know, Cress was there waiting for me there and had left overs from the dinner he cooked a few hours back. Hard to believe, but I was actually hungry by the time I arrived! The next morning I came to another lodge north on the Stewart-Cassiar Highway. I was disappointed to find out that there was no breakfast buffet option, but I did manage to do a magic trick, one of my favorites called “The Disappearing Jumbo Cinnamon Bun” following the vanishing fried eggs, toast, and bacon trick!


Disappearing jumbo cinnamon bun: now you see it.....
Now you don't!


 And so I concluded, reminded of one of Dan's guests on Sporkful, the nation's third ranked competitive eater. He earns a living in a profession I never knew existed and won his first competition eating 2 gallons of chili in 6 minutes. Gee,......I might have just found my new profession, “Hi, I'm Melissa, I'm a competitive eater riding my bike around the world, nice to meet you!” Finding hosts for this trip might become problematic!



A special thanks to the Bell 2 Lodge for giving me a complimentary night's stay at their lodge campsite. They also wanted to give me a discount on the buffet, however, Mark and his cycling pal Allan, paid for me without me realizing. What can I say....People around the world continue to take good care of me! Thank you! If you are ever on the Stewart-Cassiar Highway headed north or south, don't miss stopping at The Bell 2 Lodge. I hear their dinner buffet is equally as delicious featuring fresh fish and wild game from the area!